DIY WOODEN PEG BOARD How-to + Video

Time to break out the power tools! I created this beautiful wooden pegboard to complete my sewing space. Sure, you could buy an IKEA SKÅDIS or mount a basic pegboard from the hardware store. But if you want the maintain your chic, modern, Scandi, boho or minimalist aesthetic of your decor, this is the perfect upgrade. Here are instructions to DIY this wooden peg board for under $50.

Also, did I mention I have a YouTube now?!? Check out this video to see how my peg board came together!

How to make a wooden PegBoard

Project Difficulty – 3/5

Time required – 4 hours + additional drying time

Materials

• .5″x24″x48″ interior sanded plywood
• Poster board 
• 3/4″ dowels
• 1″x6″ poplar shelf, at least 4′
• 1″x2″ wood, at least 40″
• 60-grit sand paper
• 220-grit sand paper
• 4 2″ drywall screws
• 4 finishing nails
• Polycrylic Protective Finish in Clear Satin

Tools

• Ruler and T-square
• Power Drill (at least 20V recommended)
• 3/4″ Forstner bit
• Drill bit to match drywall screws
• Hand saw (or power saw)
• Synthetic paint brush
• Level
• Philips screwdriver
• Hammer

Steps to build it

1. Mark the layout
   1. On my 24″x48″ board, I spaced the center of the holes 4″ from each edge and 4″ between each hole. There are 11 roles of 5 holes for a total of 55 holes.
   2. Create a template by cutting a piece of poster board into a strip 4″ wide by 24″ long. With pencil, mark the spacing for your holes every 4″ along one cut edge of the poster. 
   3. Align the poster board with the edge of your plywood and mark your first row of holes. Move the poster up your plywood, aligning with your last role of markings, to mark all 11 rows of holes.
   4. Use a screw and hammer to gently tap into each hole to create a slight indentation at the marks.
2. Drill holes in plywood
   1. Raise your plywood off of the floor/ground at least a few inches by placing something sturdy in each corner of the plywood. Place a piece of scrap wood below where you are to drill to protect the floor beneath once you punch through.
   2. Carefully insert the tip of the forstner bit into one of your marked holes. Hold the drill perpendicular to your plywood and begin to drill into the wood. If the drill bit gets stuck, stop drilling for a moment and clear saw dust from your drill bit and the hole. 
   3. Give your drill time to cool after each row so it does not overheat and go dull.
   4. Repeat and drill all of your holes through. Do not flip your board over and drill some from the opposite side because the back will be a bit damaged and splintered and you don’t want that to show on the right side of your board.
3. Cut pegs and shelves
   1. Determine how many shelves and pegs you would like on your pegboard. 
   2. Cut your shelves to your desired lengths. I created two 16″ shelves and one 12″ shelf.
   3. Cut two dowels to be 8″ long to support each shelf. All other pegs should be cut to be 1.5″ longer than how far you need the peg to stick out of the board.
4. Sand for a smooth finish
   1. Carefully sand down the splintered back side of your plywood with coarse, 60-grit sand paper. Remove any splinters or sharp bits. 
   2. Roll a small piece of sand paper around your finger and sand inside of each of the holes you’ve drilled.
   3. Sand the front and sides of the plywood and shelves with a fine, 220-grit sand paper to prepare the surface for polycrylic finish (or paint). If your plywood has any smudges or markings, sand them down to remove them.
   4. Wipe everything down with dry paper towels to remove any dirt or dust. 
5. Finish and protect wood
   1. For the shelves and peg board, paint on the polycrylic with a synthetic paint brush. Wait 2 hours to dry, per the instructions. 
   2. Apply 1-2 more layers, sanding in between each. 
   3. You could also choose the paint the board at this step. After painting, consider also applying a clear coat protective finish.
6. Attach standoff strips to wall
   1. Cut 1″x2″ board into 2 20″ strips.
   2. Measure in 4″ from each end of strips and pre-drill holes in center.
   3. Determine the height on the wall where you are to hand the board. Measure up 10″ from the bottom and 6″ from each side and mark placement. 
   4. Drill one side of the wood strip into your marked location with a drywall screw. Check to make sure the board is level before drilling second hole to secure in wall. You may need to use a screwdriver to finish attaching the screws into the wall.
   5. Measure for second strip placement at 10″ from the top level of your pegboard. Repeat steps to attach to wall
7. Mount pegboard
   1. Ask a friend to help hold up the the board to the required height, or stack books to balance the board at level. 
   2. Use a hammer and finishing nails to nail pegboard into standoff strips. I used one nail in 4 spots.
8. Hang pegs and shelves
   1. Pegs and shelves can be anywhere you desire. Push pegs in all the way until you reach the wall behind. It may take a bit of twisting and/or force to push the pegs in.
   2. Balance the shelves on the pegs. Since these are only being supported by gravity, balance any weight you place on the shelves evenly.