Sewing a Wool Moto Jacket | McCall’s M8121

Sewing a moto jacket is a milestone for me. I’ve desperately needed a new moto jacket for about as long as I’ve owned the McCall’s M8121 sewing pattern. But I wasn’t ready to sew it. This is not an easy pattern! Twenty-six pattern pieces with zippers, a collar, and a full lining. It’s a beautifully detailed jacket design, but in my wardrobe, it stands as a staple. I want this wool moto jacket to throw on over anything or hurl onto a couch for a night out.

This jacket replaces a tiny Michael Kors leather jacket I got as a hand-me-down from my sister about 15 years ago. That jacket was a size small, no tall adjustments, and could barely fit me. Even though it came to me with a gaping and growing hole beside the left pocket, I couldn’t bear to part with the buttery soft leather. It was perfect for a carefree night out – if someone at the club stole it – no real harm done besides my chilly walk home.

I hold onto my last moto jacket because I hate waste. I don’t want to be a hoarder, but I struggle to discard clothes that still hold any bit of material value. That’s why I’m so happy I made this jacket with zero waste. This fabulous black wool coating was rescued from an estate sale in my neighborhood. I only paid $2 for about 4 yards, saving the fabric from the landfill fate of unsold items. The lining was rescued from my overflowing scrap bins. Choosing 3 scrap fabrics in a split complementary color scheme, including the fabric from my September fashion show, I added pops of color in hidden elements. Be still my sustainable sewing heart!

The details in this jacket are plentiful. There are zippers on the sleeves – which I had to Google to understand, but it seems it’s a holdover from actual motorcycle jacket design to keep the sleeves tighter to your wrists. The lower band matches higher in the back – another classic element. There’s also a little peek-a-boo at the shoulders that must make it a bit easier to move your shoulders in the fitted silhouette. There probably should be less ease in the pattern – but it’s a McCall’s pattern so I’ve come to expect too much ease.

These design elements are very smart workarounds for wearing ease, but they make sewing far more difficult. I treated this as a level-up project to test out and improve on my sewing skills. Then I procrastinated for 3 months before sewing the 5 zippers and finishing. But I’m happy I made it! And I’m happy I used wool instead of tempting leather or faux leather. If you’re not comfortable with the methods or you’re sewing a new pattern for the first time, I always recommend working it in a fabric that you’re familiar with.

I love my finished wool moto jacket! The glimpses of color add a bit of allure to the jet black. It’s warm down to 40 degrees, but breathable enough to be comfortable indoors. At roughly $15 in materials and about 30 hours of labor, I hope I get my work’s worth on cost per wear. I’ll style it with dresses long and short, jeans, trousers, sneakers, or hills. A black wool moto jacket will never go out of style!

Pattern

• McCall’s M8121 Moto Jacket by Nicole Miller
• Sewing Difficulty – 4.5/5
  • 26 different pattern pieces including 10 pieces for the bodice
  • Wool is lovely to sew, but it can be tricky to sew the thick, natural fabric. See my tips below.
  • Back and forth between topstitching and sewing is time consuming. Tips for the privileged below.
  • Sewing the zipper at the sleeves was the most difficult part for me. I had to settle for wonky topstitching lines when going around the metal zipper and the thick wool.
• Fit Difficulty – 3/5
  • The pattern does not include lengthen and shorten lines on the body.
  • Creating a muslin for this pattern
  • While the bodice of this pattern isn’t fitted,

Fabric & Notions

• The main fabric is a soft wool coating I bought at a neighborhood estate sale for only $2.
• I lined the jacket with a mix of remnants from my green apple Sylvie dress and the Robyn Bandele London set I created for New York Fashion Week 2023.
• The under collar uses a remnant of textured rayon from my self-drafted holiday party dress.
• The main zipper was from my stash, likely purchased at FabScrap. I went to Sil Thread in the NYC Garment District to customize 4 more zippers with gunmetal pulls for the sleeves and pockets.

Fit & Modifications

• For a sewing tall adjustment, I added 2″ in length above the waistline. Normally I would add 1.5″ inches above the waist and add more above my hip, but I simplified the adjustment because the pattern doesn’t curve for a defined waist.
• I added 2″ to the length of the sleeves. They now fit right at my wrist and show a glimpse of longer sleeves below.
• I changed the angle of the pockets to be more vertical. The original angle would have been awkward for resting my hands.
• Following the design of two leather jackets I own and love, I switched the welt pockets to welt zippers. The instructions for these are the same as the interior zipper pockets in my Carrie Purse and Antonio Tote sewing patterns.
• If I sew this pattern again, I might lower the bust apex, do a full bust adjustment, and grade to a size smaller at the waist. Overall the jacket has a boxy fit through the body that I would prefer to show my curves more.

Tips for Sewing a Wool Moto Jacket

• Wool is a wonderful fabric to sew and wear, but you must take care when pressing. Use a pressing cloth between your iron and the fabric to prevent scorching the wool and leaving an unsightly sheen. You can use a proper pressing cloth or a piece of silk chiffon.
• A bit of steam can mold wool into any shape. Use a tailor’s ham when pressing curves to define the shape and use a wooden clapper to absorb the moisture and create a tight crease at hems and edges.
• Gathering thick wool in the sleeve cap can be difficult. To ease it in for the set-in sleeve, try pinning the sleeve cap around the curve of your tailor’s ham and giving it a good amount of indirect steam from your iron. As it cools there, it should take the shape of the curve to better set into the armscye.
• This jacket requires a good amount of back and forth between the regular stitches and topstitching. If you have the luxury of 2 sewing machines, I recommend setting up your second with a topstitching needle and walking foot. Gutermann Mara 30 topstitching thread stitched a bit longer than your seams (3.0) will give you the perfect thick look. Don’t backstitch – just pull your threads to the back and tie them off.
• The pattern calls for you to hand baste close to the fold at the sleeve and bodice hems. Don’t skip this. A super quick running stitch will prevent the fabric from shifting under your presser foot. It’s key for straight and tidy hems.