Plaid Button Front Jumpsuit – McCall’s M8101

Fall 2020 is here and it’s plaid! When McCall’s M8101 launched it was at the top of my must-make list but it had to wait until I was ready to cover my legs again. Now I’m transitioning into the cozy season with my favorite print trend in my favorite fiber – 100% linen.

This jumpsuit is definitely a continuation of my tall girl obsession with jumpsuits. Wearing a monochrome from shoulders to floor can lengthen a frame and make a wearer look taller. I don’t mind looking as tall as humanly possible so I do not mind the stripes here. But, I’ve noticed in these photos that my curvy frame is playing victim to the stripes. Because one’s eye follows the lines straight up and down, my waist and hip curves are less perceptible. My baby booty nearly disappears. 😭

To bring my curves back and wear this jumpsuit as the temperature drops, I’m excited to play around with styling. I’d like to wear it over a tight-fitted turtleneck or under a stylish blazer. I wonder also how it would look with an off-the-shoulder sweater, perhaps in a mustard tone to coordinate with the yellow stripes. Of course, I don’t have any of those pieces in my current me-made wardrobe so I have plenty of sewing inspiration!

What do you think of my finished McCall’s M8101 jumpsuit? With the pattern matching, fitting, and sewing techniques, this might be the most complex project I’ve ever sewn. It certainly gives me the confidence that I can keep leveling my sewing skill set to create anything I so choose! I’ll certainly be leveling up my skills with each new make this season.

Pattern

• McCall’s M8101, View C
• Sewing Difficulty – 3/5
  • This pattern is rated by McCall’s as Average difficulty for all of the techniques it employs. There are many pattern pieces for the fitted bodice, the bodice is fully lined and interfaced, and there is boning along the back and sides for structure. Plus, I sewed a full button placket through the bodice and fly.
• Fit Difficulty – 3/5
  • All of my standard fit adjustments for McCall’s patterns were useful here. I recommend sewing a muslin of the bodice to test the fit with the bra you’ll wear.
• I’d like make this again in corduroy. Also, it would be fun to hack this pattern and use a center front zip in place of the button placket.

Fabric

• Plaid bottomweight linen from Chic Fabric NYC
• I bought 3 meters of fabric and with all of my extra inches I had just enough to also sew the bodice lining with the linen.
• My belt buckle is from Fabscrap NYC

Fit & Modifications for Sewing Tall

• I cut a size 16 and applied many of my standard McCall’s fit adjustments to this jumpsuit.
• Bodice:
  • Added length to the straps. I increased the length of the curve straps by about 6 inches and then measured them in the near-finished bodice to adjust.
  • After lengthening the straps, I didn’t need to add any length to the bodice for a sewing tall adjustment.
  • I took out 1/2″ of width from the center back by folding out 1/4″ along the foldline before cutting.
  • The bust cups aren’t quite big enough. I’d like to experiment with a full bust adjustment for this pieced bust.
• Pants
  • I graded to a size 14 at the waist. Then, after I sewed it together, I graded out another 1/2″ from each side of the back from the waist to the hip.
  • I added 2″ to the rise in the back and the front.
  • For a thin thighs adjustment, I removed 1/2″ from the crotch curve in the front.
  • I added 5″ to the inseam at the bottom so these pants will hit at the floor. 
• I’ve considered cropping these pants so I can show off a pair of booties. Please let me know what you think about that!

Tips For Sewing McCall’s M8101

• In order to match up the vertical lines of the plaid, I recommend cutting and sewing the pants before cutting the bodice.
  • From the near-finished pants, line up the bodice side piece with the 5/8″ seam allowance.
  • Mark on the bodice side piece where any vertical stripes fall.
  • Line up your vertical markings on the fabric to cut the bodice.
• It’s quite difficult to match up the plaid along all of the lines in the pieced bodice. You have to pick your battles! Choose a line you want to match and don’t worry about the others.
• To sew on the buttonholes, try on the jumpsuit. Pin at any important places (the widest part of the bust, the waist, the top. then measure to space the remaining buttons evenly around those points.
• The bottom of the button placket was too thick for sewing with my automatic buttonhole foot. I sewed my lowest buttonhole manually using zig-zag stitches. 
• Check out more tips for sewing with patterned jumpsuits and sewing plaids on my other posts.