New Look 6509 Cut Out Jumpsuit + Adjustable Strap Tutorial

What do you do when there’s a global pandemic, you’re quarantined alone and you’re super extroverted? Manufacture a way to connect with sewists and friends online! That’s what I did to sew this incredible jumpsuit using New Look 6509. Sharing my process for this jumpsuit on Instagram gave me all the pick-me-up I needed to regain my sew-jo after all of my Spring 2020 events were cancelled due to Covid-19. I pulled a fabric from my stash and created a chic outfit I can wear around the house for a smile or Zoom call. 

New Look 6509 is one of a few jumpsuit patterns I’ve laid on my sewing table again and again. I like the minimalist design and square cut outs that are a bit architectural. I didn’t like the buttons at the top of the bodice which make the whole garment look a bit folksy. So when I came across this jumpsuit by Cynthia Rowley, with D-rings connecting adjustable straps, I finally had the catalyst I needed to sew this up. The long straps bring movement to the otherwise fitted outfit and make me think of dance numbers with menswear and suspenders. (Watch Madonna’s Vogue, Like Whoa by Mya and the lingerie-clad Cell Block Tango from Chicago to see what I mean.)

Sewing this jumpsuit definitely brought joy and dancing in the mirror each time I tried it on! I’m so pleased with how perfectly it fits – especially the pants. The shape really highlights my curves and shows just enough skin to make a sexy, but elegant statement. Though this isn’t a look-at-me jumpsuit like I so love to make, I can imagine heads turning as I wear it for a date night, evening cocktails or a classy art gallery visit. I’m glad I had the vision to look past the juvenile styling on the pattern website and make this for my 31-year-old body.

I’m going to keep imagining myself in exciting places to get through social distancing. Creativity is all about imagination. Stay happy and healthy, my friends!

Pattern

• New Look 6509, View C
• Sewing Difficulty – 2/5
  • If you’ve ever sewn a jumpsuit before, this will be cake to make.
  • The instructions are a bit confusing as there are a few places where you have to jump between pages to use the instructions from another view to sew an element.
• Fit Difficulty – 3/5
  • Any jumpsuit can be a bit difficult to fit. I recommend making muslin of the top and bottom. Use that muslin to measure for your straps which could really vary in length based on your height.
• I want to make this jumpsuit again so many colors and prints!

Fabric

• Black linen-viscose blend from Walthamstow Market in London
• I used this same fabric for my M7726 shorts

Fit & Modifications

• I initially cut a size 16 for the top based on my measurements, but I later sized down to a 14 to get a snug fit.
• With the adjustable straps, I didn’t need to make a sewing tall adjustment to the bodice. I just fit the bodice to my full bust line and added length to the straps. I believe my jumpsuit is a bit more low-cut than the pattern but still does not reveal any cleavage and covers a bra nicely.
• From my muslin I could tell that I would need to shorten the bodice a bit, but I waited until the bodice and lining were fully stitched and basted with the pants to make the change. Ultimately, I cut off 5/8″ from the bottom to shorten the bodice.
• I cut the bottom at a size 16 for my hips, grading to a size 14 at the waist. 
• New Look patterns don’t include any lengthen and shorten lines so I drew my own perpendicular to the grain line and added 2″ in length for a #sewingtall adjustment for the front and back pants. 
• For my thin thighs, I shortened the crotch curve of the front pattern by 1/4″.
• I lengthened the pants to have a 29 1/4″ inseam when cut and gave it a 2″ cuff.

Tips

• Here’s how I created the straps based on the Cynthia Rowley design:
• For the back straps – measure from the top of the back bodice piece, over your shoulder, and down to about underarm level on your chest. Add 3 inches to that. (My total length was 17″.) 
  • Cut 2 back straps at the given length by 3 3/4″ wide. One end should follow the same angle as the pattern piece and the other should be cut at a right angle. 
  • Folding right sides together, stitch each the back straps at 3/8″ seam allowance only along the long edge. Trim the seam, turn out, and press. Follow step #4 on page 2 to attach the back straps to the outside of the back bodice at the dots.
• For the front straps – measure from the top of the front bodice piece up to your underarm, then down to your hips. (My length was 30″)
  • Cut 2 front straps straps at the given length by 3/34″ wide, using the same angles for both ends as is on the straps pattern piece. 
  • Folding right sides together, stitch each of the front straps at 3/8″ seam allowance along one short edge and the long edge. Trim the seam, clip the corners, turn the straps out, and press.
  • On the outside of the front bodice, mark a point 1 1/4″ from each side. Align one side of the open end of the front strap with that point. Baste to hold in place. Continue sewing garment per the instructions.
• Near the finish of garment construction, instead of sewing the buttonholes, attach the D-rings. On each of the back strap pieces, set 2 D-rings 2″ away from the cut end and fold there towards the back. Fold under the cut edge by 1/4″, press, and stitch to secure.
• Insert the front straps in and through the D-rings. Pull the straps to adjust to your needed length.

Tutorials that were helpful

• My learnings from the Bluprint class “40 Techniques Every Sewer Should Know” were super helpful here! I used my new tailor’s ham and seam roll for pressing. I also used the tips for sewing and clipping to get beautiful corners on the cut outs.