My First DIY Swimsuit – Edgewater Avenue Marley One Piece

Behold – my very first me-made swimsuit! This periwinkle cut-out dream is the Edgewater Avenue Marley One Piece and I am in love. Love because this means I’ve crossed a major threshold with my comfort level for cutting and sewing knits. And love because, as a super tall woman, I finally have a reliable source for one-piece swimsuits that actually fit. Me!

Waist-baring cut outs are a major trend this summer. Brandon Maxwell and Cult Gaia have been pumping out monochromatic designs that are the epitome of chic. And after my popular cut-out linen jumpsuit from last summer, I’ve been eager to try more cut-out styles like McCall’s M8175. Duana Chandler shared an Instagram reel of the Marley One Piece and I knew that it was absolutely the right pattern to start my swimwear making journey.

Working with stretch knits is very different than with wovens, but I was delighted to find that my standard fit adjustments worked well here. I had three major fit concerns: (1) cover my boobs; (2) prevent a muffin top; and (3) prevent a camel toe situation from a swimsuit too short in length. To make sure my boobs were covered, I focused on placing the band of the top in the right spot. That meant measuring carefully and adding length to the strap. I also added length to the bottoms so the seam between the top and bottom hit at my waistline. This gave me the added length for a high rise fit – no muffin top here. The total added length prevented any hungry crotch issues.

Now that my feet are wet with sewing swimsuits, I’m excited to make more and more. This pattern was purposefully an easy starting point and it lacked many of the features I expect when I buy swimwear: boob support from underwires or thick under-bust elastic, adjustable straps to lift, and padding to prevent nip exposure. I will definitely try to learn to sew those features in my next projects. For now, I am very happy with my swimsuit sewing first!

Pattern

• Edgewater Avenue Marley One Piece
• The pattern is not very inclusive – it only goes up to a 42″ bust and 44″ hip
• Sewing Difficulty – 2/5
  • I don’t know how  I could have made this without my serger
• Fit Difficulty – 2/5
  • The super stretch means size ranges can be flexible
  • You can hold the pattern up to you in the mirror, but you won’t be able to try on the garment and check fit until the very end
• I’d love to make this swimsuit again with color blocking or print mixing

Fabric

• Periwinkle swimsuit fabric from a neighborhood fabric store in Astoria Queens
• 3/8″ braided swimsuit elastic (see my note – you should use 1/4″)

Fit & Modifications

• Based on my bust of 39.5″, I cut a size XL for the top
• I needed to lower the placement of the bodice piece to fit over my bust so I added 3″ to the strap for each the front and back
• I cut a size XXL for the bottoms, tapering to an XL at the waist
• After measuring the pattern, I added 2″ to the rise of the swimsuit so the adjoining side would meet at my waist. This also meant no muffin top as the brief rose to my hip bone.
• Next time I make it, I’d like to make the crotch a little more narrow and cut the hips in a bit higher.

Tips for sewing the Edgewater Avenue Marley Swimsuit

• I basted all of the seams first using a long machine stitches and a stretch needle. This kept everything from shifting under my serger.
• The pattern doesn’t call for elastic to be placed on the curve under the bust, however I was worried it would ride up and expose me without it there.
• Don’t stretch the elastic as you attach it. The pattern has significant negative ease and will need that elasticity to stretch across your body.
• Definitely use 1/4″ swim elastic. I only had 3/8″ and it causes the seams to roll every which way. Thankfully I used self-lining.
• Edgewater Avenue has a sister business and sells swimwear notions, including elastic, on Etsy as Swimwear Notion USA

Tutorials that were helpful

• This pattern comes with a full instructional video. Give it a watch before you sew so you can prepare for the process.
• I also watched their videos on elastic. It was my first time sewing elastic on the serger and the video was a big help.