My DIY Tropical Vacation Dress | McCall’s M8030

In my imagination, I’m wearing this dress as I walk into a rain forest hotel in Manuel Antonio, Costa Rica. The tropical print camouflages me through the leaves as the loose fit of McCall’s M8030 conceals a swimsuit below. This dress conjures fond memories of travels past and aspirations of vacations future. It’s for summer days that set into night over ceviche and cocktails, surrounded by friends.

During my year of expat life in London, I sewed almost exclusively for vacation. I whipped up quick shorts to wear in St. Tropez, another pair for Malta, and a easy wrap top for Valencia. Since I’d moved across the ocean with only a few suitcases, my wardrobe was desperate for an injection of different colors and fabric weights for different climates. But vacation sewing also provided an important escape from my reality of 60-hour work weeks. The planning and stitching of a new make diverted me from the stress of the office.

This shirt dress is now a bold escape from my Brooklyn-bound Covid-19 quarantine. The busy, large print of this cotton reminds me of dresses from Farm Rio in colors straight from 60’s tiki parties. It’s shapeless like a muumuu, but takes on my curves easily with the belt. I was unsure if I liked it until I tried it on. Now, I can’t wait to have somewhere wear it!

Pattern 

• McCall’s M8030, View C with sleeve band from view A
• Sewing difficulty – 2/5
  • If you can sew buttonholes, you can sew this dress.
• Fit difficulty – 1/5
  • Easy straight up and down, loose fitting dress.
• I’d like to make this pattern again in mixed fabrics and different views

Fabric

• Tropical printed 100% cotton sateen from Chic Fabrics in New York City, purchased in 2018
• Round acrylic buckle from FABSCRAP instead of the D-rings

Fit & Modifications

• I cut a size L based on my bust and hip measurements, but graded to a M at the waist.
• I added 1.5″ at the lengthen and shorten line above the waist for a #sewingtall adjustment.
• To get the hem to fall below my calf muscles, I added another 3″ to the length at the straight hem line for view B. 
• I moved the pockets down 3 3/4″, but that was overcompensating. Next time I’ll only move them down about 2″.
• I moved the side slits down 5 7/8″ so they’ll rise to finger tip length

Tips for making McCall’s M8030

• With such a large and busy print, it was impossible to match the pattern across the front band. I kept the print layout mostly intact by cutting the front panels on the fold and then cutting them apart.
• For the collar and front band, it helps to first pin along the inside to get the placement right. Then, on the outside, pin between your pins to secure. Remove the pins from the inside and then sew. 
• You can also pin securely and eliminate hand stitching when finishing the lower front band. The steps of edgestitching will secure it.
• It may be difficult to sew the buttonholes through the many layers of fabric and interfacing using the same needle. After testing several times on scrap fabric, I switched from a 70/10 needle to a 90/14 needle to sew the buttonholes.
• Apply fray check to both sides of the buttonholes and allow it to dry before cutting open. This stops the loose threads from fraying after cut.
• To place the buttons, I always cut open the buttonholes and mark dots through the holes with a heat-erasable marker. To make sure they’re placed correctly, first match up the front yokes and pin the front bands together.