My DIY Bridesmaid Dress – McCall’s M7047 Gown in Stretch Velvet!

A floor-length gown with me in heels standing at 6’5″ – you know I had to make that!

My best and most stylish friend, Dr. Rocky, had a vision for her wedding with each of her bridesmaids wearing different gowns in Marsala. Not only did it mean that each of us ladies could wear a dress silhouette that worked for our diverse bodies, but it also meant that I could avoid the frustration of trying find a gown long enough for me (and flats to match). I traded up for the stress of creating the perfect gown and giving it a professional finish so it would look picture perfect – haha!

Does my joy in these photos show off how pleased I was with the finished result? I got the skin-tight fit I wanted by carefully considering ‘negative ease’ and redrafting the skirt to fit close to all of my curves. And the draped low back and luscious stretch velvet of the dress fit right in with the 1940’s vibes of the ceremony and reception.  At the wedding, a few women came up to me as said, “Girl, that dress looks like it was made for your body!” That’s the best compliment a tall girl could have asked for. I will definitely be wearing this bridesmaids dress again!

Fabric 

• Wine stretch velvet from Fabrics World USA, bought in NYC
• Lined with purple stretch jersey – not a match to the fabric, but it doesn’t show

Pattern

• McCall’s M7047, Cowl back bodice with long skirt
• Sewing Difficulty – 2/5
  • Pattern is very simple but stretch fabrics, especially stretch velvet, can be tricky to sew
• Fit Difficulty – 2/5
  • Stretch is generally easy to fit. As you’re adding length it may be difficult to reshape the hips and prevent puckering.
• I would make this pattern again for another special occasion!

Fit & Modifications

• I wanted this to fit skin-tight so I carefully reviewed the finished garment measurements and chose a size that was just below my actual measurements – this created negative ease with my fabric that had a generous two-way stretch
• I added 1.5″ to the bodice length as a standard #sewingtall adjustment
• I added 4 5/8″ in length between the waistline and fullest part of my hip while re-drawing the hip curve to match my dimensions at the high hip with negative ease. There’s still a little bit of puckering at my hip because I didn’t match the shape exactly.
• I added another 5 3/8″ in length to the straight of the skirt between the hip and the knee. This made it long enough to touch the floor when I’m wearing heels. I added it there instead of the hem so I could keep the original shape and size of the flare at the bottom.

Tips

• I discovered these adjustments in an ill-fitting muslin. I recommend confirming your changes by testing out your negative ease adjustment in the lining first and trying it on. There’s not too much harm if the lining is a bit off, but you should be sure of the fit before you cut the finished fabric.
• Velvet has a nap which looks different from top and bottom. Make sure you’re lining the fabric with the grainline and think about if you want a shiny effect or a richer effect (I chose richer). All of your pattern pieces need to go in the same direction!
• A walking foot is a must for sewing with the two-way stretch velour and the lining and its definitely worth the $10 investment!
• Always use a ballpoint/jersey needle when sewing with knit and stretch fabrics so the needle doesn’t cut your threads and unravel your make
• I used an overlocker/serger to sew most my seams on the velvet and a zig-zag/stretch stitch everywhere else
• Let the dress hang for at least 24 hours before hemming and always try it on with the shoes you’ll wear it with to get the right length. It helps to have a friend cut the hemline before it’s stitched so it can be even while you stand up straight. 

Tutorials that were helpful

• How to Sew with Velvet and Velveteen