Sewing Elevated Workwear – Just Patterns Yasmeen skirt

Let this Yasmeen skirt signal that it is boss lady season! It’s the time of the year when I look back on all I’ve done and make goals for what to accomplish in the new year. And for some reason I always associate new year power moves to professional dressing. Blazers, slacks, skirts and coordinated wear-to-the-office suits. Even though I haven’t been in an office in a few years, I always want to ready myself to show up like Principle Weems in Wednesday – professional, statuesque, and flawless as Gwendoline Christie. So yes, this Yasmeen skirt by Just Patterns is perfect for this time of year.

I love sewing patterns by Just Patterns because Delphine’s attentive drafting and organized instructions are phenomenal. In the drafting you can expect well-placed notches for all of the curves. The seams are always trued and lengths match up. Across a wide size range, that requires lots of time and perfectionist precision! For the instructions, she doesn’t hold your hand with beginner-focused tips and tutorials. But, Just Patterns will definitely level up your sewing and your seam finishes. Like in her other woven sewing patterns I’ve made, the Helena Wrap Top and Milton Pinafore, this pattern calls for French seams at all seam lines. Extra work but the right way. So clean!

Actually, the seams are so clean that I finished this skirt inside out! I sewed all of the seams, save for the center back, and realized the French seams could be an incredible design feature. Otherwise subtle on my puppytooth fabric, the curved seam lines shine along my inside-out seams. They take this from being a basic fitted skirt to an interesting and body-accentuating design.

The other big design feature of this pattern is the flare at the bottom of the midi and maxi. I searched for these mermaid vibes and found this silhouette in wool crepe, lace, and even denim. Check out my Pinterest board of skirts to find more designer inspo.

Delphine and I met IRL went shopping together at Mood and Chic Fabrics when she came to visit NYC this fall. It’s amazing to meet other sewists and pattern designers and discover just how different our bodies are. I’m nearly a foot taller and definitely wider but sewing empowers me to use her patterns and make them fit my body. It’s a wonderful super power!

Pattern

• Yasmeen Skirt by Just Patterns
• I sewed the midi length with length changes for fit and no lining
• Sewing Difficulty – 2/5
  • French Seams and bias binding are leveled-up skills put to use in this pattern
• Fit Difficulty – 3/5
  • Helpfully, this pattern comes with lengthen and shorten lines in the lower part of the skirt, but there are no lines for waist to hip length additions/subtractions.
  • The curve of the middle front to side front seam is very stylized so it can be a bit difficult to keep the style as you add length. (See below for tips.)
  • Because this skirt has 4 lengthwise panel pieces, it took a bit more effort to add my length and grading changes.
  • I love the outcome of my fit!

Fabric

• Puppytooth suiting from Rainbow Fabrics Kilburn (purchased in 2019)
• This is same fabric I used to make this blazer and I have a bit left so I might make the Just Patterns Veronica Vest and make a 3-piece suit!
• Delphine posted a video of a sequined version of this skirt and now I really want to make one in sequins!
• I also really want to make a denim version of this skirt with topstitching along the seam lines. Denim midi skirts are so trendy now!

Fit & Modifications

• I graded from a size 42 at the waist to a size 46 at the hips and lower
• The length from the waist to hip on this pattern is 9 3/8″
• I added 2 5/8″ to the pattern at a spot 1 1/2″ above the hipline notches
• The total hem length I measured on the midi pattern, before my length additions, was 29″ without seam allowance
• I added 3 3/8″ to the lower lengthen and shorten line to give me a 35″ total length
• Watch my reel to see how I did my fit changes

Tips for adding length to the Yasmeen Skirt

• Use the notches to keep placement consistent as you add length
• The middle front to side front seam has a very specific curve. To keep the length of the seam the same as you add length to the pattern, walk the seam between both pieces.
• Assembly line your length changes. Since there are 4 pieces that all need length adjustments, batch each length change and add the same lengths at once.
• Use a hip curve ruler to adjust the curves as you grade size or add length through the curves.
• As you add length in the lower part of the skirt, draw your new line straight from the top of the flare triangle down to where the triangle ends at the hem allowance. You may need extra paper on the sides as the shape of the triangle changes.