DIY Surplice Sweater in Purple Waffle Knit | McCall’s M7991 Pattern Hack

The telltale sign that I’m getting comfortable sewing knits, I am now pattern hacking and self-drafting my own elements. That’s exactly what I did for this sweater. The purple waffle knit was begging for a surplice style – loose across the chest with a modest peek of cleavage, fitted through the waist, and big balloon sleeves that meet the wrists with tight cuffs. The style matches a surplice sweater I’d saved to my knitwear Pinterest board. So happy to design this pattern and excited to make another soon.

Pattern

• Significantly hacked McCall’s M7991, View B
• My purple ponte dress was also made with this pattern in view C
• I hacked this pattern so much and didn’t use the instructions so it’s not fair to give it a pattern review
• I definitely want to use this pattern again, with more sweater knits, to make several sweaters.

Fabric

• Plum chunky waffle knit from Cali Fabrics
• I was able to make this in under 2 yards of fabric
• This is the same fabric I used to make my Adrienne sweater

Fit & Modifications

• I added 1 5/8″ of length above bust for a Sewing tall adjustment
• To make sure I had enough coverage across my chest, I did a 3/4″ full bust adjustment (FBA)
• I transferred that added 2 3/8″ of length to each front band so it would reach down to the hem of the bodice.
• The FBA added width across the waist so I gathered it into the waistband
• I cut the waistband as a single rectangle. It’s the size of my waist and the length is 12″ so folded in half it is 6″.
• I wanted the sleeve to be voluminous so I measured another balloon sleeve in my wardrobe and decided to make the pattern angle out from the underarm to 24″ at the bottom.
• Rather than add length to the sleeve for sewing tall, I added length by using the cuff that comes with the pattern for view C. I narrowed the cuff by 2″ for my thin wrists.

Tips for this surplice sweater diy

• Except for basting stitches for gathering, I sewed this entirely on my serger.
• I regret not sewing a piece of clear elastic into the shoulder seam to prevent stretching out. Please do this with all your knits.
• The original McCall’s M7991 pattern uses elastic around the waist for stretch. My serger threads snapped a bit when I first put it on, so I’ll look into so a better connection method next time.