DIY Satin Surplice Dress – VikiSews Sylvie

I was today years old when I learned that “blouse” is also a verb. Blouse means “to puff out in a drooping fullness, as a blouse above a fitted waistband.” It’s the perfect description of this silhouette, the VikiSews Sylvie dress. The bodice is a loose-fitting, drop-shoulder top that blouses over a close-fitting tulip skirt. I’d wanted to sew this design for a year since the draped shirt dress by Gauge81 was trending for FW21-22. I was equally excited and apprehensive about making a style with so many design features – so it took extra year, but I did it!

The VikiSews Sylvie dress is not a quick sew. For starters, there are 31 pieces to cut in fabric and interfacing. You have to cut most pieces in a single layer to support the asymmetric wrap style and prevent slipping in the satin fabric. If your fabric doesn’t take a press well, as mine didn’t, add extra time for steaming seams with a clapper. Also plan for several passes with hand basting to line up seams before stitching in the ditch. If that’s not a clean enough finish for your perfectionism, as with mine, count on plenty more time for slipstitching along the collar and cuffs.

I have to admit – at 80% done sewing I wasn’t sure I wanted to finish this dress. I’m so fit-obsessed that the loose top and drop shoulders of the design made me question if I had sewn it right or if the VikiSews Sylvie style was right for me. I pushed through by focusing on the new skills I was happy to learn. To top off the happy vibes, I visited the Garment District to get some crystal buttons to finish the sleeves. The wrist bling adds sparkle to the shiny dress and puts a smile on my face. In the end, I love it!

Pattern

• VikiSews Sylvie Dress
• Sewing Difficulty – 4/5
  • Tedious sew with lots of small design details
  • I wish the steps had jumped around between different pieces less – I hate setting half-finished pieces aside
  • Very detailed pressing instructions not typical in patterns
• Fit Difficulty – 2/5
  • There was no need for me to lengthen the pattern because I was able to buy it sized for my height.
  • If you fall between multiple sizes and typically grade from waist to hip, you’ll need to do so without having the sizes in the pattern.
  • Total ease allowance is indicated with about 10″ of ease at the bust and 2 3/8″ ease at the hipline

Fabric

• Granny Smith apple colored crepe back polyester satin from Metro Textiles
• I bought 3 yards of the fabric and have some remnants
• I’ve seen faux leather versions of this dress that I’m tempted to recreate!
• Crystal buttons from M&J Trim

Fit & Modifications

• I sewed size 44 in height 4 with no fit modifications
• I’ve needed to do a full bust adjustment (FBA) on VikiSews patterns in the past, but Sylvie has significant ease at the bust
• I was able to sew it without modifications because the height 4 pattern is drafted for up to 6’1″!

Sewing Details in the VikiSews Sylvie

Sew this dress if you want to explore a wealth of sewing skills. It’s certainly not easy, but there’s a lot of learning to do!

• Open collar
• Drop shoulder
• Pleated wrist
• Open bell cuff
• Rouleaux loop button
• Back yoke
• Gathered blouson fit
• Pleated faux wrap
• Invisible side zipper
• Pleated Tulip skirt