DIY Linen Crop Top – Just Patterns Helena Wrap Dress

Say hello to my bright, happy Helena Wrap Dress by Just Patterns! Delphine reached out to me to sew this pattern just before its release and I had to say yes. It was exactly like a top I’d sketched days before for my summer sewing queue. But her version had even more thoughtful, tailored details than I’d imagined. There’s a grown-on front facing that bends around the neckline with a sleek dart. Instead of gathers, the bust has clean lines from pleats. The waistband curves into the center to form a classic cummerbund. And the sleeves and ties are finished with neat topstitching. All of these details elevate the simple wrap top or dress to another level of sophistication. It looks like a million bucks even on the hanger!

I had the perfect lite, brite yellow linen in my stash to make this top. It is super soft and drapey (probably a linen blend) and has just enough translucence that it wouldn’t be right for an unlined skirt or dress. It’s such a bold color, but it matches so well with all of the other tones in my wardrobe. Not to mention I’m *always* making high-waisted skirts and pants so crop tops are the absolute way to go.

Overall this was a pretty easy sew. I was able to adjust for pattern fit without making a muslin by measuring the pattern paper against my body measurements. It also taught me several new ideas for pattern making – especially the folded front facing. However, I did stray from the pattern a little bit. The pattern asked for edgestitching in a few spots and, not understanding that the topstitching was a design motif for several spots of the Helena Wrap Dress, I chose to stitch in the ditch. It’s a little more difficult to test or preview a pattern. Normally I can check Instagram hashtags to see how other sewists have finished a pattern, but I was all on my own here. And now that I’ve made it, you won’t be all alone 😃

I really love this top with this pattern and this color. And I want to make another. My original sketch and Pinterest inspiration featured a starchy silk like a taffeta – something thin with body. I also didn’t have sleeve bands in my original sketch and I’d like to go back to that vision with shorter sleeves. It might also make for a pretty blouse in satin. Or even a bohemian look in tie-dyed shades with a quilted waistband. The Helena Wrap Dress is a great silhouette to explore different creative visions. I can’t wait to see more examples on the hashtag – #HelenaWrapDress

Pattern

• Helena Wrap Dress by Just Patterns
• Sewing Difficulty – 3/5
  • The pattern printed without page numbers so I had to keep everything in order to match up to the pattern marker before taping.
  • Pay close attention to the seam allowances as some are 3/8″, others are 1/2″ and finished with french seams, and some shift along the same stitching line.
  • The written instructions are very detailed, but there are a few spots where more illustrations would be helpful. Another picture to show the edgestitching on the front facing and another view of the waistband would have resolved a lot of confusion for me.
• Fit Difficulty – 1/5
  • The style is loose fitting at the bust and can be wrapped to desired dimensions at waist
• Overall I enjoyed the pattern and I love the style. I’d like to make it again in a different material and perhaps as a dress.
• I received this pattern in exchange for posting pictures of my finished make on its launch date

Fabric

• Drapey fluorescent yellow linen from my Nur Jahan Fabrics in Brooklyn, NY
• Less than 2 yards of 56″ fabric were needed to make the crop top
• I saved fabric by cutting some pieces on the fold and others in a single layer

Fit & Modifications

• Based on my bust measurement, I cut a size 44
• My waist better matches a size 42, but the style can be tied tighter or looser as needed to reveal curves
• The style is meant to be loose fitting and has a bit of extra length in the bodice
• I added 1/2″ in length above the waistline to the front (where I usually need 1.5″). When I make this again I’ll be more careful with the placement of that added length so it goes in the short area below the sleeves.
• I didn’t need to add any length to the back of the pattern for sewing tall.

Tips to Turn the Helena Wrap Dress into a Crop Top

• Cut and sew everything as instructed up to step 16
• Skip to step 21
• On step 22, stitch each set of ties with right sides together and continue stitching the waistband together leaving a 4-6″ gap in the middle unstitched.
• Turn everything out through the unstitched center of the waistband.
• Fold and press in the opening. Pin or baste it closed so it’s even. Finish with steps 22 and 23 to topstitch all around the ties and closing the opening.